Lucknowi Chikankari Kurti - Kiko Clothing

Lucknowi Chikan art has nearly 40 stitching methods for fabric designing purposes. This blog shares information about the popular stitching techniques that made Lucknowi Chikankari Kurti, a trend in the fashion market.

May it be summer, winter, or rainy, These Kurtis will always be the best option to enhance your fashion. It will never fade your beauty or your presence at the party functions.

Stitching Techniques that made Lucknowi Chikankari Kurti Popular

The chikankari work combines different stitching techniques with back and front work to make it aesthetic and authentic in the clothing segment. Here we list some popular stitching methods that do delicate depictions of art and style over the fabric to blend fashion with traditional clothing.

Ring Jaal Stitch

It is one of the older embroidery designs that prove the ethnicity and legacy of chikankari art.

It gives the look of a net-like structure with punch holes all over the fabric cloth.

Artists use needles to push the warps and wefts to make a hole without harming the quality of the thread.

This design uses the concept of the air ventilation process while making Kurti. Forming a net-like structure gives the Kurti comfortable wearing, mostly during summer days.

Most embroidery workings cover the edges of the holes in the fabric using needles and white thread.

The traces of jaals or jaalis in the fabric represent the hole designs in the windows and entrance gates of the palaces during Mughal times. Noor Jahan originated this design with imagination to put this jaali idea over the fabric.

A single artisan can’t complete the design. This design requires an assembly of more hands that come with the pattern forming and stitching processes one after the other.

Artisans use fine threads to make this design pattern without compromising the strength of the fabric.

Phanda Stitch

Rich in embossing work over the fabric, the Phanda stitching method has a unique embroidery design in the chikankari art style.

This stitching uses a repeating process of weaving the thread in a particular place which forms a bud-like structure over the fabric.

Artisans use this stitching art to design the front panel, the hem of sleeves, or Kurta to give a finishing look.

This stitching uses different color threads to customize the embroidery design according to the color of the fabric material.

Artisans repeat this stitch all over the hem to complete the embroidery process.

Tepchi Stitch

Also known as Tipkhi or Taipchi in different parts of India, Tepchi Design is a daunting stitching style to make a continuous line forming structure.

Artisans use this stitching method as a part of the embroidery process to form simple shapes on the fabric.

This process uses six strands of threads in a single needle, placed upside-down to form discrete lines over the fabric.

We use this stitching method to complete the leaves and flower design embroidery.

Even though Tepchi is a replicated work of Jamdani, an embroidery work from Dhaka, the arduous efforts of Indian artisans towards the tepchi stitching style redefined the embroidery design to a new version in India.

Bakhiya Stitch

Bakhiya is a typical stitch process used to strengthen the embroidery joints in a single frame so that it doesn’t loosen the design pattern in the fabric.

This stitching style is different from others due to its wrong side weaving art.

Artisans weave the pattern in the space on the wrong side to get the look on the right side of the fabric. They give the running stitch on the right side that looks like a boundary to the design space.

Ulti Bakhiya is just the opposite of bakhiya shadow work.

Ulti bakhiya uses a cross-threading method that looks like an open design without any boundary over the design pattern on the space.

Artisans use bakhiya and Ulti bakhiya stitching styles to design the leaves on the fabric.

Ghaas Patti and Chana Patti Stitch

These stitch styles have a thin line difference while doing embroidery design.

Ghaas Patti stitch follows the down to bottom approach, and Chana Patti stitch follows the center approach to form the lining patterns in the fabric.

Artisans weave through a criss-cross method for shadow work using ghaas Patti stitching style. A thread line is made using a needle at the two ends of the motif, and then it is woven from right to left beyond the thread line on a bottom to top basis.

Chana Patti stitch uses the same process of stitching as ghaas Patti.

Artisans weave from the center of the space, forming a V-like structure on the right side of the motif print.

It creates a diagonal lining over the fabric that completes the design beautifully.


Every stitching pattern is specific due to its intricacy in making Lucknowi Chikankari Kurti a gracious and elegant attire. Add kurtas with authentic stitching art to your ethnic collections in your wardrobe to enhance and redefine your fashion statement.

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